I previously posted that I have a KEW Hobby pressure washer. Been great to date.that had started surging. No shortage of incoming mains (pressure or flow rate) even tried different hoses & fittings to be 100% sure of that. OK - as hose was crumbling away. Bought a new hose, incl hose fitting. So can now discount the hose, lance & nozzle from being the issue. Loads of water through lance if trigger operated (motor off) When motor is on.
When lance operated it is surging. Aprox 2 sec full pressure 1 sec low pressure. Now previously it was mentioned that when I release trigger. Pump still runs, and it uses a bypass valve to release the pressure. And this could be at fault.
Anybody know what this would look like, and is this something worth stripping & perhaps cleaning. Last option I suppose would be if there is somewhere that services KEW. Like many British Manufacturing companies - they are no more. On 21:03, Rick Hughes wrote: Quoted Text Here Very likely it is.
The valve is opening too soon by the sound of it. Quoted Text Here On an old KEW hobby it was probably adjustable - which KEW hobby do you have - is there a model number?
Quoted Text Here KEW were Danish:-( Started by a Knud Ernst Westergard who worked for Gerni in Randers, Denmark, now defunct, but once part of the Nilfisk group. Bought by an investment group - renamed Alto, then bought by Nilfisk - they now trade as Nilfisk-Alto.
Dozens of places will repair them. Worth hanging on to, it was the last of the quality hobby machines. On Sat, 02 Jul 2011 22:42:07 +0100, The Medway Handyman Quoted Text Here I made the 'mistake' of lending mine (Kew Hobby, the shape and weight of an arc welder) to a pretty good friend but with the strict reminder that 'I don't normally lend stuff out to anyone' and to 'make sure you look after it'. He took a long time returning it and eventually I found out why. He had be using it to clean the loose stuff off his house after we had replaced all his windows with new uPVC jobbies and because it was a nice day and his kids were outside he was mucking about spraying them with it. In an effort to run away, one tripped over the mains lead and ripped the cable clamp and part of the case out.
Although quite old even at that point it (had) looked like new (it was 'mine') and of course parts were either difficult to get or very expensive. Luckily it still worked as such but. How does it go. 'Neither a borrower nor a lender be.' As my Dad used to say re this sort of thing. 'You have nothing to gain and everything to lose' and generally he seems to have been right.
1 Cheers, T i m 1 The only rider with that is if I do lend it to you and you break it you buy it. Or buy me a same better replacement one.' With some people that goes unsaid but others.;-(. On 19:34, Rick Hughes wrote: Quoted Text Here I don't know for sure, but I reckon its in the brass head thats held down by 4 hex head bolts. It could well be under the pressure gauge, so look their first. What you are looking for is a screw that compresses a spring. It needs tightening.
What should happen is; when the gun is shut the pressure rises, forcing a valve to open against the spring and the water returns to the inlet. So if the working pressure of the machine is 100 bar, the spring will be under enough tension to hold the valve closed at 100 bar, but will allow it to open at 105 bar. Whats happening to your machine is; the spring is broken or out of kilter it might be allowing the valve to open at 80 bar. So pressure rises to 80, valve opens, pressure drops to 0, valve closes, pressure rises to 80 etc etc. Do either of these look familiar to you as 'unloader valve. I found the comment below on line.
A pressure washer unloader valve prevents the pressure from building to the breaking point when you aren't spraying water. A 'diversion loop' is created to cycle the water back to the inlet valve and inlet part of the water pump. Unfortunately, the unloader valve is often a cause of trouble.
Some power washer users report problems such as the pressure washer motor dying after spraying is done, minimal pressure, and sometimes even leaking sprayers. There are a variety of fixes to problems such as these, the simplest being the replacement of the unloader valve. If you need to do this kind of pressure washer repair, it's absolutely essential to replace the power washer valve with one that has equal or better gallons per minute (GPM) and PSI ratings. Failure to do this can result in additional pressure washer problems, including a safety hazard connected with the pressure of the unit overwhelming the unloader valve, compromising or even destroying it. On 20:22, Rick Hughes wrote: Quoted Text Here That machine has a water jacket around the motor to keep it cool.
I suspect that tube is the inlet to the pump from the jacket. Thats where any 'unloaded' water would return to. Quoted Text Here They are the inlet or outlet valves. Quoted Text Here Doesn't look too bad, should last a while. Quoted Text Here That looks exactly like the unloader valve adjuster. Try turning the screw clockwise & see if it helps. Half a turn at a time, don't go mad.
If no good, strip it out & see if the spring is broken. Quoted Text Here That has to be American. Power washers are very different in the USA & primitive compared to the European ones - mainly due to the Micky Mouse US electrical system. That refers to a separate bolt on unloader.
Kew Pressure Washer Parts Distributor
Our machines have them built in to the pump head. Replying to The Medway Handyman, Curtis wrote: I have a 30CA Compact Pressure Washer with probably less than 20hrs on it. Was working fine then began shutting off after 15 seconds or so. Can cycle it back on with the on/off switch but condition persists. Inlet screen is clear, pressure shut off switch is OK and motor rotates smoothly. The run capacitor is getting hot along with the start relay attached to it.
The start relay cover is slightly warped from getting hot. All connections seem to be clean and solid. Trying to narrow down a bad contactor block, start relay or old capacitor. The unit was made in 98' or 99'. Replying to David Lang, Curtis wrote: Quoted Text Here Don't see any indication of one on any of the diagrams.
The question at hand is why the run capacitor and starter relay are heating up so quickly after only running for such a short period of time. Motor fan spins easily with only a small amount of resistance, no doubt from the shaft seal and pump impeller.
No corrosion on the motor at all. Lousy current flow somewhere might heat things up? It ran fine with intermittent use for about 30 minutes, full pressure, positive shut-off with release of the trigger, etc.
It sat for a while and then began the short bursts and shut down.
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